LOOP ROPE MOUNTING GUIDE
How This Guide Works
There are 3 ways to hang your Loop Rope:
Pick whichever one fits your ceiling, your wall, or whatever you've got lying around:
Ceiling
The strongest option, usually. Straight down, no funny business.
Wall
Works great - with the right fixing, in the right spot.
Tie it off
Got a beam, a rod, a rail? Skip the drill entirely.
In your box:
you will find a screw (one end goes into the surface, the other end holds your Loop Rope) and a plug. From here on we call them simply the screw and the plug. You'll also need a Torx screwdriver or drill bit (size T25) to drive the screw in.
Good to know:
your Loop Rope holds up to 20kg in total. It's made for hanging things on, not for people to hang from.
One honest note:
a Loop Rope only holds what its fixing can hold. If you're ever unsure whether a wall or ceiling is strong enough, ask someone who does this for a living. No shame in it. We'd rather you ask than guess.
How to Identify Your Surface
Do these two quick tests at the spot where you want to mount:
- Tap it. Knock with your knuckle. A dull, solid sound means concrete, brick or wood. A hollow, drum-like sound means a board with a gap or a beam behind it.
- Drill a tiny test hole (3-4mm). Check the dust and how hard the drill works:
- Grey powder, steady resistance:
concrete
- Reddish dust, sudden gaps: hollow brick
- Soft white dust, almost no resistance: plasterboard
- Wood shavings: wood
Then jump to your surface below.
A. CEILING MOUNTING
Usually the strongest option. The weight pulls straight down - nothing pulling sideways, nothing working the fixing loose over time. If you can choose between ceiling and wall, pick the ceiling.
Not sure what kind of ceiling you have? Check How to Identify Your Surface first.
1. Solid Concrete Ceiling
How to tell:
Knock on it - solid, dull sound. A small test hole shows grey powdery dust and steady resistance the whole way through.
What you'll need:
A hammer drill, a 10mm stone drill bit, a brush or small vacuum, a T25 star-shaped screwdriver bit.
Drilling:
Straight up, 10mm wide, about 6cm deep. Clean the dust out — it weakens the hold if left in.
Mounting:
Push the plug in flush with the ceiling. Screw the mounting piece in with the T25 bit until snug.
2. Hollow Brick Ceiling
How to tell:
Can sound solid when you knock on it - the real test is the hole. Reddish dust, and sometimes the drill suddenly meets less resistance (that's a hollow pocket inside the brick).
What you'll need:
Same as concrete.
Drilling:
Same as concrete - 10mm, about 6cm deep.
Mounting:
Same as concrete. The plug we include is designed to work in this material too, not just solid concrete.
3. Plasterboard Ceiling
How to tell:
Hollow sound everywhere you knock. Soft white dust, almost no resistance when drilling.
Before you start:
A wooden beam behind the board is always stronger (see #4). Only use this method if there isn't one where you need it. Keep the weight modest.
What you'll need:
A regular drill, a 10mm drill bit (a normal one, not a stone bit), a T25 bit.
Drilling:
Drill straight up, 10mm wide, until the drill breaks through the board. Check first that there's no pipe or electrical cable behind that spot.
Mounting:
Push the plug in. Screw the mounting piece in with the T25 bit. You'll feel it get firmer as the plug grips the back of the board. Stop once it's snug, and check it from time to time.
4. Timber Beam Ceiling (wooden beam behind the board)
How to tell:
Hollow sound between beams, solid directly under one. Beams usually run about 40–60cm apart.
Finding the beam:
- Use a stud-finder tool and slide it slowly until it signals wood.
- Or knock your way along the ceiling and listen for where the sound turns solid.
- A small test hole helps confirm: wood shavings mean you've found it.
What you'll need:
A regular drill, a 4–5mm wood drill bit, a T25 bit. A stud-finder helps if you're not confident doing it by ear.
Drilling:
Once you've found the beam, drill a small hole straight into it - 4–5mm wide, about 4cm deep.
Mounting:
No plug needed. Screw the mounting piece straight into the beam with the T25 bit until snug.
5. Solid Wood Ceiling
How to tell:
You can see the wood directly - no board or covering over it.
What you'll need:
A regular drill, a 4mm wood bit (only if the wood is hard or you're close to an edge), a T25 bit.
Drilling:
A small 4mm hole if needed, about 4cm deep. The wood should be at least 2cm thick where you're mounting.
Mounting:
Screw the mounting piece straight into the wood with the T25 bit.
6. Suspended Ceiling (with a gap behind it)
How to tell:
Hollow, "boomy" sound. A test hole meets little or no resistance for several centimetres before hitting anything solid.
Why it's different:
The board has to hold the weight on its own - nothing solid close behind it. Our usual plug may not be enough here.
What you'll need:
A thin wire to check how deep the gap is. A heavy-duty ceiling fixing made for this (ask for a "spring toggle" or "cavity toggle for ceilings" at a hardware store).
Drilling:
Use the size stated on that fixing's own packaging - it varies by product.
Mounting:
Follow the instructions that come with the toggle fixing - fold it through the hole, let it open up behind the board, then tighten until firm.
Keep the hanging weight modest here, and if you're unsure about the ceiling construction, have someone check it first.
B. WALL MOUNTING
A quick but important difference from ceiling mounting: on a wall, your Loop Rope pulls sideways, not straight down. That sideways pull puts much more strain on the fixing than the same weight would on a ceiling. Because of that, wall mounting is stricter about what counts as safe.
Good to know when choosing your spot: the Loop Rope sits about 8cm out from the wall.
The short version: on a plasterboard wall, you must mount into a wooden beam behind the board. Nothing else is strong enough to hold up long-term.
1. Solid Concrete or Brick Wall
How to tell:
Tap the wall with your knuckle - solid, dull sound. A small test hole shows grey (concrete) or reddish (brick) dust, with steady resistance the whole way.
What you'll need:
A hammer drill, a 10mm stone drill bit, a brush or small vacuum, a T25 star-shaped screwdriver bit.
Drilling:
Drill straight in, 10mm wide, about 6cm deep. Clean the dust out before mounting — a dusty hole holds less firmly.
Mounting:
Push the plug in until it's flush with the wall. Screw the mounting piece in with the T25 bit until snug.
2. Timber Stud Wall (plasterboard with a wooden beam behind it)
How to tell:
Tap along the wall - hollow sound mostly, but solid right over a beam. Beams usually run vertically, spaced about 40–60cm apart.
Finding the beam (don't skip this):
- Use a cheap stud-finder tool - hold it against the wall and slide slowly until it signals wood behind.
- Or tap steadily across the wall and listen for where the sound changes from hollow to solid.
- A small test hole helps confirm: wood shavings mean you've found it; soft white dust means you're still just in the board- try a few cm to the side.
Search YouTube for "how to find a wall stud without a stud finder" for more detailed demonstrations. Many are US-based and mention 16"/24" stud spacing. In Europe it's typically 40-60cm, so use the technique, not the exact numbers.
What you'll need:
A stud-finder (worth having for this one), a small 4–5mm wood drill bit, a T25 bit.
Drilling:
Once you've found the beam, drill a small hole straight into it - 4–5mm wide, about 4cm deep.
Mounting:
No plug needed. Screw the mounting piece straight into the beam with the T25 bit until snug.
⚠️ No Beam Where You Want to Mount?
This isn't a safe option, so we don't recommend it. Move your mounting spot to where a beam is, choose a different wall (solid concrete/brick), or use the ceiling mounting option instead. A fixing that only grips the board itself may hold at first, but it's likely to loosen or fail over time from the sideways pull of regular use.
C. TYING TO A BEAM, ROD, OR RAIL
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Got something sturdy nearby - a beam, a pipe, a railing? You can skip drilling altogether and just tie the rope to it.
How to tell if it's a good spot:
- It has to be fixed in place and strong on its own - not decorative, not hollow plastic, not already wobbly.
- It should be thick enough that the rope can wrap around it firmly - very thin rods can let the knot slip.
- Check what the beam or rail is attached to as well. A sturdy-looking rail is only as strong as what's holding it up - if that part is weak, the rail doesn't help you.
What you'll need:
Nothing. No drill, no tools.
How to mount it:
Wrap the rope around the beam or rail and tie it snugly, with no slack. Give it a firm tug before trusting it with weight.
One honest note:
this option depends entirely on how strong the beam or rail already is - we can't guarantee that the way we can guarantee our own hardware. If you're not sure it's strong enough, treat it as a no.
A Few Common Questions
Is fixing hardware included?
Yes, a screw and a plug are included. You'll need your own Torx screwdriver to drive the screw in. A Torx bit is part of virtually any standard screwdriver bit set. If you need replacement hardware, it's available to reorder on the site.
I'm still not sure what kind of ceiling or wall I have. What should I do?
Start with How to Identify Your Surface at the beginning of this guide. If you're still unsure, it's worth asking someone with a bit of experience to take a quick look before you drill. That's better than guessing with something you're going to hang weight from.
Can I mount it on a plasterboard ceiling?
Yes, with some care. Plasterboard isn't our first choice for a ceiling, because it can't hold as much as concrete or wood. If there's a wooden beam behind the board, screw into that instead, as it's much stronger. If there isn't, drill a 10mm hole, push in the included plug and screw in the screw. The plug grips the back of the board as you tighten. Keep the load modest and check it every now and then. For heavier loads, mount into a wooden beam or a solid wall instead.
What's the maximum weight I can hang?
Up to 20kg in total, about 7 heavy winter coats. That's the Loop Rope's own limit, though. The real-world limit depends on your mounting surface too: concrete and solid wood handle it easily, but plasterboard and suspended ceilings need more care. Mounting into a wooden beam or a solid wall is usually the safer choice there. The Loop Rope is made for hanging things on, not for people to hang from.
Can I move the mount later if I change my mind about the spot?
Yes. Just remove the fixing and patch the hole the same way you'd patch any small hole in that material (filler for plasterboard, a bit more care for concrete or brick). The screw can be reused. Use a new plug in the new spot.
What if the fixing feels loose after a while?
Stop using it and check the spot again before continuing. A loose fixing is a sign to re-mount, not to keep going.
What length Loop Rope do I need for my ceiling height?
Subtract 20cm from your ceiling height. That gap gives the rope its characteristic floating effect off the floor and keeps items from dragging. The standard 240cm works well for most ceilings between 2m and 3m, which covers the vast majority of homes. If your ceiling falls outside that range, choose the custom length option and enter your measurement there.
What type of wall anchor should I use?
The included plug is a multipurpose plug that works across most common ceiling and wall materials: concrete, brick, solid wood, and plasterboard ceilings. For the majority of homes, you won't need anything else.
What type of anchor should I use for a suspended ceiling?
For a suspended ceiling where you want to go through to the solid structure above, toggle anchors can work, but what's right depends on your specific ceiling construction and how much you plan to hang. When in doubt, a specialist can assess the situation quickly.
How far does the Loop Rope hang from the wall when wall-mounted?
About 8cm. The top bolt holds the rope out from the surface, giving it a clean floating appearance even when mounted on a wall rather than the ceiling.
Can I shorten a Loop Rope that's too long?
Two options. The simplest: tie a knot near the top to take up the excess. No tools, fully reversible. The more permanent route: remove the aluminium end cap, trim the rope to length, and reattach the cap. Note: custom-made Loop Ropes can't be returned under EU regulations, so if you're ordering a custom length, measure carefully first.
Can I join two Loop Ropes together for a very high ceiling?
Not as designed. For ceilings above 360cm, order the custom length option instead and put the length you need in the order notes. We'll make it to measure.
Still Stuck?
Write to us at service@peppermintproducts.com.
We're always happy to help.
Team Peppermint : )
